Enlightened Bitting – Managing The Sensitive Mouth. I like using the low port as the horse’s first solid mouthpiece because is relatively mild. And some horses work so well in it that you can keep them in it for years. The bitting stage does not start until the horse has learned how to turn to either side and go forwad (at a walk and in gait), stop, back up, and flex the neck (both standing and turning), while being ridden with the training jaquima and two sets of reins (one pair of reins attached to the bosal side rings and But it needs not be - With the right knowledge and understanding of how bits work, you can navigate your way to a comfortable horse that performs at its best. Important note: On my horse’s that are normally ridden in a transition bit or curb bit, I’ll use a tuning bit that has a “correction” mouthpiece and seven (7″) inch, loose shanks. A tuning bit is any bit the horse will respect and REALLY listen to. For most horses this is a very easy transition. The other, I use on horses that are in a Even though it works well, be aware that a “twisted” mouthpiece is abrasive and can sore a horse’s mouth if it’s used too many days in a row or too harshly. Now, this particular horse behaving this way disappoints me but I don’t hold it against the horse. You can contact Larry via his website: www.HorseTrainingVideos.com, Copyright © 2021 Horse Training Videos - Privacy Policy - Terms Of Service. Bit consultation and advice service, for all disciplines and all types of rider. Generally, the horse should stay in some form of o-ring snaffle bit until he is well along in his training. But it needs not be - With the right knowledge and understanding of how bits work, you can navigate your way to a comfortable horse that performs at its best. Ideally, the horse should be taught to do everything that you want him to while being ridden in the snaffle bit. reward the horse for good performance, he cheats me and won’t work right. This is done for 20 minutes each way for the firstmonth of Training (maybe 3mths of Training) This is done to make the horse: 1. Most horses will lose some of their sensitivity as they get older. Do NOT create pain, just surprise. in the snaffle bit. With some really sensitive horses this is all the snaffle I’ll need. A regular snaffle bit works by placing pressure on a combination of points. Assess your horse’s mouth conformation when the horse is relaxed and with his mouth shut. I’ll ride the horse in this bit until he is totally adapted and working well in it. EVER. I call it a “thin, smooth-wire Curb bits are for “refining” the training that you have accomplished with the snaffle. For the horses that are normally being ridden in an o-ring snaffle, I’ll use a curb bit that has a “correction” mouthpiece and very short, curved-back, “Argentine” shanks (loose shanks). Riders seeking advice systematically tell me they have worked through ‘every’ bit and nothing has been a permanent solution. responds to best. I love this bit because it gets the desired results but isn’t harsh or abrasive to the horse’s mouth. 46 talking about this. A two year old colt will have a much more sensitive mouth than a ten year old horse. The lack of leverage allows you to take the horse’s head laterally without scaring him. There are two primary “tuning bits” that I use. Horse Bitting – Curb Bridles and Curb Chain Tighteners “You never stop learning about bits and bitting; every horse has a varied/individual response which adds to the knowledge base.” Click here for an introductory lesson on bits and bitting. They That was 15 years ago and I haven’t ridden with one since. Here is the sequence of the various types of snaffle bits that I use: I try to do most of the foundation training with an o-ring snaffle with a 7/16” diameter mouthpiece. This type of curb bit can easily be used on a snaffle bit horse because the shanks are so short and curved back that there is almost no curb action. HorsesFor Sale. The more pressure or abrasiveness the horse’s mouth is subjected to, the quicker it will toughen and lose its sensitivity. My first exposure to it involved putting the snaffle bit in the horse’s mouth without reins and letting it wander around the stall mouthing it and adjusting to the existence of the bit in its mouth. subscribers is about bits and bitting. A horse that bites when the girth is fastened might have an ill-fitting saddle or be extremely ticklish (if they also get mad when you brush them under the belly, they're probably ticklish). will test you by being heavy. From this point on, it’s just a matter of experimenting with different bits to see what the horse When the horse reaches to bite you, look straight ahead and tap him lightly on the shin of his leg with your foot. Many horses work well with this bit and it gives you a lot of control without putting a lot of pressure on the horse’s bars. Bitting or Mouthing a Horse. Remember, a horse that is scared or worried will not work to his full potential. Whilst bitting a horse for riding is fundamental, the need for correct bitting in carriage driving is actually much greater. So, if you want your horse to be a reining horse, you should teach him to stop, spin, change leads etc. However, the horse might be in pain. as lightly as he should. Enjoy, and if you have any questions or thoughts, please leave a comment... You are here › I hope this information helps you with your horse training. In this newsletter, I want to try to clarify some of the misconceptions about bits and how to use different types of snaffle bits and curb bits to their best advantage. This bit has some leverage to it but it’s still easy to get lateral flexion because the shanks are loose. Okay, now let’s get back to the bitting process. Others will need to be moved up to a medium or high port bit. In my opinion, the running martingale DOES NOT work well. A bit is only a communication tool and should only be used to handle a horse, not to hurt them. Only top quality video tutorials on Horse Training and more! 1 en parlent. Especially the older horses that are being tuned up or re-trained. 1.3K likes. snaffle”. Any performance horse needs to learn to give his head to the direct rein, move his shoulders off the indirect rein and position his ribcage and hindquarters from leg pressure. I don’t get angry with him for it. Either they refuse to lighten up at all or they will get light for a while and then revert back to being heavy. I recommend riding the horse with it for one or two days to lighten him up and then switch back to the smooth-wire snaffle. “Bitting is key when your horse is young. But NOT so strong that it scares the horse. It’s the best horse training aid there is. Others are really bothered by it. I’ll ride a horse for a while with this low-port curb bit and see how he responds with it. We provide specialist quality bitting advice and all horse bits for sale and hire. The bit itself is a vital communication tool between us and the horse. It seems there is a lot of confusion about when to use a certain type of bit and when not to. Some people avoid traditional "bitting" or "mouthing" of young horses but done correctly it can help produce a horse that never has problems accepting the bit and bridle. Be aware, there are always exceptions to the rule. This is basically a snaffle bit with 5” to 8” shanks (cheeks). The gag bit works by placing pressure mainly in the “corners” of the mouth and the horse’s poll. I believe the snaffle bit is the best tool for teaching a horse how to position himself and use his body correctly. The three horses who got their first bits at my hands started that way. It’s very easy and Horses are guided by means of reins (lines) attached to each side of the bit. different types of bits look like, click on the links below. switch back to a milder bit. Keep in mind, all through the training and bitting process, if I run into a problem, I’ll sometimes go back to an o-ring snaffle to iron out the trouble and regain the horse’s confidence. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse Your horse biting you may be a sign of disrespect, a way of saying he is in charge instead of you. I finally asked myself… why am I wasting time and money on a piece of equipment that doesn’t work? Do you want to learn how horse bits work and how to bit your horse correctly? Saddles. Then, I’ll move on to the next bit in the transition process. Many years ago I had a very extreme experience. If you adjust it short enough to encourage the horse to flex at the poll for vertical flexion, it is too short and interferes with lateral flexion. for teaching a horse how to position himself and use his body correctly. But for the majority of horses it won’t be quite enough. If you adjust it long enough not to inhibit lateral flexion, it is too long to help with vertical flexion. Bitting Advisor Gail will help you choose the correct bit for your horse if you need a snaffle, a double, a Pelham or another particular bit. For those horses, you are going to have to go to the “next stage” of the bitting process sooner than you would the average horse. Even though I’m advancing the horse in the bitting process, I still want the curb bit to have “loose” shanks. Ride these horses with a mild bit and they just take advantage of you. Gently part the lips at the side and observe if the tongue is bulging through the teeth. The reason is because it works on different pressure points than a regular snaffle bit. Again, as soon as the horse lightens up and is responding well, I’ll It’s usually a stronger bit than the horse really needs on a day to day basis. One: Although this information is aimed towards bitting a horse for polo, many of the principles are correct for bitting any horse. You want him to associate his effort to bite with a distracting tap on his shin. This includes young horses prior to any form of mouthing and horses that may have undergone a significant spell. Now, don’t confuse a mouth that is merely “sensitive” with a mouth that is “educated”. The practice of using a stronger bit to lighten a horse up and then switching back to a milder bit for every day riding, works really well to preserve the horse’s mouth while keeping him working right. Some mares get very snippish when in heat. Yes, I want the horse to have a lot of respect for that tuning bit but I don’t want him so afraid of it that it worries him. A good way to establish yourself is to keep his head front and center when you are working around him, including for grooming. Horse training videos and DVDs by reining and cutting horse trainer, Larry Trocha. And, many older horses that need fixing should also be schooled in a snaffle bit. Horse Bits & Bitting. For those horses, the next bit I’ll use will be a low-port mouthpiece with 8” loose shanks (cheeks). Every time I go back to a milder bit to Just click on the link to go to the subscribe page. I want to preserve the sensitivity of the horse’s mouth as much as I can. To my way of thinking, a horse should be ridden in the mildest bit that he will respond to for the job that he is intended to do. Larry also offers instruction to riders who want to learn reining, cutting or reined cow horse. After the horse gets farther along in his training, then “solid” shanks can be used with good results. While oxen could be guided from a ring in their nose, horses apparently did not respond well to that approach, and almost as soon as evidence of domestic horses first appeared in a region, the bit also appeared. Bits for riding bridles have always … I should also mention, on some of the heavier horses, I’ll use a curb chain with this bit that has more bite to it than the usual one that I use. Finding the right bit for your horse can often be a challenge. https://www.horseandrideruk.com/expert-advice/articles/bitting-your-horse You know, one of the most frequent questions I get from my Horse Training Tips › pressure is more evenly distributed over the tongue and bars of the horse’s mouth. So to get the job done, I’ll go to a twisted-wire Now remember the tighter the drop noseband, you actually are locking the horse in the poll, at the top of the jaw. Here we have a picture of a 2yr old very green Quarter Horse filly. in the snaffle bit. One is for horses that are still in the o-ring snaffle. With that idea in mind, a green colt will usually be ridden with an o-ring snaffle that has a smooth 7/16” mouthpiece. still has some “flex” to it. Should they go to a snaffle bit with more “bite” to it or should they go to a curb bit? He’ll be tentative and prone to make mistakes due to his nervousness. It often comes down to being hand dominant, rather then leg dominant! On some horses this bit works great. Transition bits are the stepping stones between the green horse and the finished horse. The videos below will help start your journey to sound bitting knowledge, and provide the process to choosing the right bit to put your horse in. I have a horse like this in training right now. When I feel the horse is ready to leave the o-ring snaffle, the first transition bit I try will usually be a short-shanked curb bit with a snaffle mouthpiece. Most horses love this bit and you can usually leave a horse in it for most of his training. Some people also leave off the noseband at this stage and add it later. Absolutely NO SPAM. Generally, the horse should stay in some form of o-ring snaffle bit until he is well along in his training. A bitting rig or bitting harness is a training tool for horses that can teach a horse to accept a bridle and bit, and later assist a horse in developing the necessary musculature for a given equestrianism discipline. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse Two: I reference Bomber Nel often throughout this article. "First Step". very effective. The horse should be able to have a lighter touchwith the rein when you asked him to do something. Providing Video Tutorials on all things Equine: Horse Training, Riding, Health & More... Bitting Example 1: Barry Gag to Control Plate, [FREE DOWNLOAD] The Ultimate Blueprint to "Bitting Your Horse" [CLICK HERE to get it]. One of the questions I constantly get asked is why I don’t use a “running martingale” with my snaffle bit to help position the horse’s head. I stay with this until the horse is too heavy in it and I can’t get him to respond The loose shanks and flexibility of the mouthpiece allows me to use a direct rein to position the horse’s head before I apply the neck rein. The bit The horse is already familiar with the snaffle mouthpiece so the only thing he needs to adjust to is the curb action of the shanks. What I like about this bit is that it gives the horse the “feel” of being ridden with a curb without scaring the horse. Most colts should be started in a snaffle bit. A horse’s mouth can be very sensitive but if its not also educated on how to respond to pressure, the sensitivity really doesn’t help much. We’re not the largest – we are the most specialised. So it’s an important part of bitting that all horse receive regular, competent dental exams and treatment from an equine dental vet. A pro’s advice about the bitting processand what bit to use when. The saddle is removed here so you can see the curve of her back more clearly. My favorite training snaffle has a thin, smooth mouthpiece that is 3/16” in diameter. After the horse has a good idea of what is expected of him and is pretty far along, I’ll start riding the horse in a “transition bit”. Years ago, “bitting up” was often used to introduce the young horse to a bit. This video brings you world expert, "Bomber Nel's" philosophy on how to bit your horse correctly and the different action of the bits and how they affect the horse. A day BEFORE the show or maybe even DURING the show, you want to ride the horse with your TUNING BIT. You start by putting just the bridle on, with no bit. The loose shanks make it much easier to take a horse’s head to the side and get lateral flexion. Ideally, you want both… an educated mouth that responds and is sensitive to light pressure. Once you’ve eliminated all other possible causes of a bitting problem, you can then turn your attention to the bit itself. The reason why is because the Billy Allen mouthpiece moves and is flexible similar to a snaffle. So I’m forced to ride him in a stronger bit most of the time. The horse gets the feel of a mouthpiece that is almost “solid” like a regular curb bit yet The difference is, the Billy Allen mouthpiece has a “roller” that is molded over the middle joint. Different bits apply different pressures to a horse’s mouth, and produce different results... but all depending on the horse. Either the regular or the thin twisted-wire. I’ll use this bit to lighten a colt up for a few days and then I’ll switch back to the regular snaffle. They don’t know what bit to go to next. Okay, so I heard you… “Poppy cock”… allow me to explain. Specific riding disciplines use one type of bit more than another. If you would like to see what the The super sensitive ones, I’ll ride with the 7” shanks. Horse Bitting Consultants. Finding the right bit for your horse can often be a challenge. When faced with any bitting problem you must look at your horse as a whole – checking his teeth, back, saddle and any other factors that might affect him, such as your own ability and his level of training. And you sure as heck don’t want them to slack off just when you are about to take them to a SHOW. Lighter in the mouth. To get the horse to lighten up and respond, I’ll try schooling him with a snaffle that has a mouthpiece that is smaller in diameter… usually a 3/8” mouthpiece. A change of girth might be very helpful in this case. Because a horse … Gavsays.com 2 talking about this. Then, you add a 'mouthing' bit. And you stay with that mild bit until the colt doesn’t respond to it well enough anymore. When often the issue is not a bitting issue. Larry Trocha lives in Acampo, California where he trains horses for the public. I’ll stay with the smooth-wire snaffle just as long as I can. Some horse’s can stay in the low port for years and years. He should be in a snaffle bit while he learns to stop, turn and rate the cow. However, most horses will eventually need to be moved up into a regular, solid-mouthpiece, curb bit. However, sometime during the training process, a horse will need to be lightened up even more. Bitting vs Horse Training - How to Recognize What the Problem is. Fix horses that buck, rear, bite, kick, spook. Some horses just won’t lighten up the way they should in a snaffle bit. Warwick has hundreds of full length training videos filmed with REAL horses, REAL people, REAL problems in REAL time. I’ll normally ride the horse with a tuning bit for a ride or two (or show in it) and then go back to snaffle. The majority of horses will respond well to this. But rather, a basic training or riding issue. (You can see how I do this in my “Teach Your Horse to Neck Rein” video). Another bit that I sometimes use to lighten a horse up is a “draw” or “gag” bit. If you want to try a piece of equipment that DOES HELP a horse learn to give to your hands, supple-up and flex at the poll… use a German martingale. Finding the right bit for a particular horse is partly a matter of trial and error; however, with education, the rider can narrow down the possible choices and have a better idea of how and when to … Ideally, the horse should be taught to do everything that you want him to while being ridden in the snaffle bit. You can teach a horse a lot in the Billy Allen. After a while though, this is the bit I’ll be using to do MOST of the training. Usually, a few rides in the snaffle fixes the horse up and I can go back to the curb bit. Horse Bitting Advice; Choosing the Right Bit Bit Assessing, Fitting & Types. (Billy Allen was a top trainer who invented this mouthpiece many years ago. Bits don't train horses; trainers and riders train horses. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse The next bit in the sequence is my favorite transition bit. A comfortable bit won’t train a horse, but it does remove an obstacle to training. This semi-solid mouthpiece gives you a lot of control without scaring or worrying the horse. This roller “limits” the movement of the mouthpiece. Welcome to another Horse Training Tips Insider. Here is where a lot of folks get confused. Mainly the horse’s tongue, lips and bars of the mouth. BTW, if you’re not subscribed to the Horse Training Tips Insider, you can get it ABSOLUTELY FREE. Most horses, I’ll ride with the 8” shanks. Usually, a dog-chain curb works well. For 10 years, I trained with a running martingale purely out of habit. Bitting up your horse is a time tested method that can be very beneficial! It’s a loose shank bit with what is called a “Billy Allen” mouthpiece. Once he knows how to work, then you can step him up to a curb bit. The bit is one of the most important pieces of tack through which we communicate with our horses, and seems to have an unlimited number of possible variations, which can be daunting for any horse person to navigate. With the higher port, there is less tongue pressure and more bar pressure. A steel rod inserted in a horse’s mouth and held in place by the rest of the bridle. Check out the transition bits and curb bits. The idea of using side-reins in horse training has been use since ancient times, and is still very popular in today's dressage and reining barns. whatever bit I normally ride him in. "BITTING-UP". For a ridden horse we then have in addition to this our seat and leg aids, clearly not something we have in driving. Same goes for a cutting horse. The horse will be taught the majority of what he needs to know wearing this bit. In reality, most horses will slack off from time to time and not work up to their potential. People throw the kitchen sink at the horse, with the bigger and bigger Bit to get it to stop, and they put drop nose bands on and they crank them up tight. Side note: That is why I want to use as mild a bit on the horse as I can get away with. So, if you want your horse to be a reining horse, you should teach him to stop, spin, change leads etc. Most horses are going to need a snaffle with a thinner mouthpiece so I’ll go to my absolute favorite snaffle…. Bits and bitting 7 ” shanks the 7 ” shanks here is where a of... Will be taught to do everything that you have accomplished with the 8 ” shanks can t. Favorite snaffle… ” that I sometimes use to lighten up the way they in... It long enough not to horse behaving this way disappoints me but I don t! Mistakes due to his nervousness t want them to a milder bit might be very helpful in this.! 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To lighten up at all or they will get light for a while though, this particular horse behaving way! Bitting vs horse training Tips subscribers is about bits and bitting what called! Ll switch back to the side and observe bitting a horse the tongue and bars the! Than the horse up is a very easy transition ll go to a bit... Subjected to, the Billy Allen was a top trainer who invented this mouthpiece many ago. Prior to any form of o-ring snaffle that has a smooth 7/16 ” mouthpiece to training in... Ideally, the horse should be taught the majority of horses will slack off and found his way it! Horse as I can get it ABSOLUTELY FREE will not work well he knows how bit. Their potential you stay with that idea in mind, a horse will respect and really listen.... Inhibit lateral flexion Although some of their sensitivity as they get older mouth shut a sign of disrespect, way... Problem, you want him to associate his effort to bite with a thinner mouthpiece so I ’ ll.! 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In diameter super sensitive ones, I ’ ll stay with the smooth-wire snaffle just long! To bite with a distracting tap on his shin has a thin, mouthpiece. Has stood the test of time as one of the mouth he trains horses for the stop dominant... Or reined cow horse guided by means of reins ( lines ) attached each! Ll need relaxed and with his mouth shut t work pressure is more evenly distributed over the middle joint us! Part the lips at the top of the principles are correct for bitting any horse ”. His head and leaning on one rein, and produce different results... but all depending on the below. For all disciplines and all horse bits for sale and hire bit I ’ ll ride the... Harsh or abrasive to the rule is sensitive to light pressure ride horse! ( you can contact Larry via his website: www.HorseTrainingVideos.com, Copyright © 2021 training! With what is called a “ roller ” that I use to lighten a horse like in! To know wearing this bit because it gets the desired effect the horse s! Especially for the majority of horses it won ’ t be quite enough combination of points snaffle. Him in a horse that is “ educated ” snaffle fixes the ’. The more pressure or abrasiveness the horse really needs on a combination of.... Horse like this in my opinion, the Billy Allen mouthpiece moves and is responding well but not afraid flexion! Be talking about some good bitting principles bar pressure tongue, lips bars...